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This has been resolved through further testing.
Note that in general, if you can keep the up and down positions in the middle of the range, it will decrease the wear and tear on the servo. Settings such as 60 up and 40 down are preferable to 80 up and 60 down.
If you’re testing to see if a servo works, 60 and 40 are good starting positions, with a wide enough range to see the motion.
As we mention in that post you referenced, we switched to wider angle LEDs for a short while in 2013. We switched back to the original LEDs and have been using them ever since. There is some amount of variation in them, but within expectations.
I asked for additional pictures because I don’t fully understand what is going on with your kit. The width of the lit-up areas is similar between all three colors as we would expect. I was hoping to get additional information that would help me diagnose the problem.
I will help you to resolve the problem and am happy to provide replacement parts as needed. I need for you to help me to understand the problem both so that I can help resolve your specific instance but also to look for wider problems that could affect other kits.
If you would prefer to reach out via email, you can use the contact form.
Would you mind also taking a picture of it not in the dark, from the front as well as from the side? It’s hard to see the shape of things without any light on the PCBs.
We haven’t changed LED vendors and we normally make sure that all the LEDs are from the same batch for these kits, which normally means they’re pretty consistent. Are all three rings affected, or just one color? Would you mind posting or emailing a picture of the problem?
Would you follow up with us by email so that we can send you a replacement controller board? I will also have some other tests for you to check if there is any other damage.
When you have just the USB cable plugged into the AxiDraw (please make sure that the power supply is NOT plugged in) does the LED labeled USB next to the power jack turn on? There is also an LED above the capacitor cutout labeled 3.3V. Does it turn on? (You may need to look upward through the cutout to see it.)
Are there any signs of damage from shipping, such as bent parts or loose connectors?
I see you’ve emailed us as well — I’ll follow up there.
Things to check:
* Do any EBB lights come on with just USB connected (not power)?
* Do any EBB lights come on with just power plugged in (not USB)?
* Are you using a USB hub or extension cord?
* Do you have another USB cable you can test?
* Is there any visible damage to the EBB?Yes, and I’ll follow up with that information in response to your email message. Additionally, you may want to note that when transporting the AxiDraw, it is a good idea to remove the pen clip from the vertical stage.
I see that you emailed us as well, and I will follow up with answers via email, as this forum may not be the best place for a detailed discussion of this type.
I have deleted the duplicate posts you made and I am following up with your email inquiry.
1) Mostly no.
2) Mostly no. But if you add up all the voltages in your series circuit, you’ll see that it can’t run on 3 V.3) A flashing LED in series with regular LEDs will also cause them to flash. However, if you’re going to run all those things in series, you’ll need a higher voltage power supply. But then you’ll also need to decide how you’re powering your parallel circuit and your motor circuit.4) Whether you use SMD or thru-hole LEDs doesn’t make much difference, so long as you know their specifications.Here’s an article that may help choose a resistor for your circuit, as well as think about what kind of power supply you might want for various circuits:Here’s an article that gives an example circuit of using a flashing (or in our case, flickering) LED to drive regular LEDs:It’s here: https://github.com/evil-mad/AxiDraw/
AVRs in the same series should be straightforward to work with, such as the ATmega324, 644 and 1284. For other chips, you may need significant changes.
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