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We are behind schedule, but yes, we still have plans to finish up and release the kit. We won’t be offering blueprints for it until we’re happy with the design and ready to release it.
As long as the supercap has voltage capacity greater than that of the solar cell, you can connect it directly in parallel with the battery.
Well, that’s an unusual problem with the reset– I’m really not sure what’s going on there.
As for the crash, that is actually news to us. There is a known bug in Inkscape that means that the software “cancel” button does not work, but it shouldn’t actually crash anything.Anyway, I’m glad to hear that you’re (at least mostly!) up and running again.Hi Carl,
The older EBB firmware (which ships with the Eggbot) supports all features that are required by the Eggbot extensions for Inkscape, and is known to work well. So, we do not recommend updating the firmware to the newest version unless you are developing custom driver software and need access to the newer features.As for the “pause” issue, I’m not sure what the problem is. I don’t think that I’ve ever seen Inkscape crash when you press the pause button. Can you please say what version of Inkscape you are using, and on what operating system/version?Finally, can you please say what problem you’re actually having with the firmware? (Other than the known servo issues with the newer firmware version.)-WindellI’m afraid that I don’t have any personal experience with this LCD.
Have you followed the Adafruit tutorial on wiring and programming this display ( http://ladyada.net/products/nokia5110/ ) ? They also have a support forum for LCD display issues, which is probably the best place to ask questions like these ( http://forums.adafruit.com/viewforum.php?f=47 ). There are several questions in the forums there that may be related, and it stands to reason that other people who have been through these issues do frequent these forums.-WindellHave you been able to get some of the existing simple demos to work, such as MeggyJr_CheckButtonsPress and MeggyJr_EasyDrawDots?
So far as I know, this cannot be done directly. It looks like general polygons can’t be part of footprints.
However, building it out of lines is actually a pretty good workaround. I was able to draw an open star with just five line segments (six clicks total!), which seems to convert into an element just fine. With a fatter line width (and about 30 seconds), I was able to fill the shape with lines, making a solid star shape. And that works as an element too. Not half bad, actually. :)From what I can tell, that uses the same chip, so it will be compatible. (Our own store carries a similar board, the FTDI Friend, which is basically the same but with the addition of a few configuration options.)
Well, “maybe.”
In our demo, we used a current-controlled transistor. High-power LED drivers may or may not be able to accept and respond to a fast control signal (depending on whether or not they are designed for PWM), and if so, you’ll likely have to adapt the control signal input to the type that they’re expecting.By “low-voltage position” I just meant that it was held electrically low (close to ground).
> the positive pin of every LED in row 1 is in continuity with the emitter pin (right-most) of EVERY transistor.This should not be the case; compare with the other rows. The emitter of the transistors is connected to the positive power supply (“Vcc”), and Vcc should not (directly) make it into the LED matrix anywhere. The likely issue is that the collector (middle pin) of Q1 is connected to the emitter. Check on the top and bottom sides of the PCB for a short at Q1. If you cannot find an external short, try replacing that transistor.If I understand correctly, whenever an LED lights anywhere, the LED in row 1 but in the same column as that LED lights up as well. That suggests that the transistor on row 1 is stuck in the “on” position. Using your multimeter, check to see if the base pin of Q1 (the left-most pin, connected to RB1) is stuck in the low-voltage position. If so, it’s likely that the transistor is OK, but is receiving a bad signal. Check to see if that pin is electrically connected to nearby things. Then, check the other end of RB1 to see if it might be shorted to pins 2 or 20 of U2. It *should* be connected to pin 3 of U2, and that pin alone.
>Using the continuity tester on my multimeter, when powered on, the + and – leads of the LEDS on Row 1 are continuous.
I’m not sure what you mean by “continuous” here. The square-hole sides are connected together in every row, and the round-hole sides are connected together in every column.>Row 1 is not ALWAYS all lit. When the device is powered on, an apparently random pattern of LEDS in Row 1 sometimes light (usually in blocks of three or four) with a few LEDS in between not lit My earlier statement that the LEDS show no response at all to the sketch may be incorrect. I can see them flickering slightly but they are so bright it’s hard to be sure.Have you finished building the Peggy yet, or are you still trying to debug it while building? If there’s a pattern in the behavior, it is likely to reveal itself more clearly when all of the LEDs are in. And, if something is flaky, try wiggling the different components to see if the transistor or one of the chips has an intermittent connection.>There is no scroll-bar on this window so I can’t see anthing that won’t fit on one screen.
Hmmm. Most web pages do not have built-in scroll bars. How do you *normally* scroll down a web page?
(I use the scroll wheel, trackpad, or page-down key.)Good catch! I’ve added it to the wiki page. :D
Yes, that sounds like what I’d do. :)
