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So far as I can tell, what you want already exists. It exists now (without having to wait for a new feature to be developed), and it exists in a variety of high quality versions.
While there are some subtleties, I can say publicly and with simple clarity (1) we are not a font company and (2) I don’t see any reason for us to develop something that duplicates existing functionality.
Those fonts are a little pricey, but they are quite good. The “Scriptalizer” software is proprietary to Quantum Enterprises, and is only available with their fonts.
Now, there are lower cost stroke fonts available from https://www.singlelinefonts.com , and you are also welcome to use the ones that come with the software (see the last pages of the Hershey Advanced user guide for previews) or create your own. You also have alternatives to use no font at all– with direct handwriting capture, no two letters are ever exactly the same.
However, if you want a single-stroke handwriting-like font that offers automatic letter variations, there is only one option that we are aware of, at any price.
Please follow the link to the svg-fonts repository, and scroll down the page. The last half of the page is a big table of fonts and sources, including links to the google font pages.
If you are trying to display the fonts on a screen, outside of a vector-drawing application then neither stroke fonts nor SVG fonts are good choices.
There are ways to convert SVG fonts to TTF (including fontforge and convertio), but they will not necessarily be legible, since stroke fonts are constructed differently than outline fonts.
Most of the SVG fonts in our repository are based on outline fonts– you can use the TTF outline versions of those fonts from the original sources.
Fantastic, and thank you for following up.
The error that you’re seeing is (as I suspected) in the Inkscape installation, rather than in the firmware or EggBot software. I’d suggest a full uninstallation and then re-installation of Inkscape, and be sure to restart your computer as well.
If you aren’t able to succeed with that, please follow up and I’ll have an alternate suggestion (one that shouldn’t be done unless necessary).
Are other extensions working?
Please follow the instructions at axidraw.com/sw
You need to install the AxiDraw software, not just Inkscape.
That sounds quite good, actually. There can always be some little bit of ghosting that could drive you nuts if you try to fully eliminate it. It sounds like you’ve made great progress and if it were mine, I’d call it good there.
It isn’t clear from your description exactly what the situation is.
A couple of first things to check:
* Is the upper-left corner of the 6×8 paper under the pen when you start plotting?
* Could this be an “automatic rotation” issue– that is, one that could be fixed by rotating your paper 90 degrees before printing?Well, that seems correct too.
If it’s not the resistors, then it must be the LEDs, or the connections between them.
You might further check all permutations, and make sure that there are no other odd connections between the LEDx lines.
However, I would say that one possible case is that there is an issue with those three blue LEDs. Have you done any resoldering work or relalignment on those since it was working?
I would not have expected the power supply change to affect the situation.
> When D45 is ON, 4 is HIGH and 5 is LOW. So I don’t understand how D410 and D105 can both be on simultaneously. For D410 to be on, 4 is HIGH and 10 is LOW. But for D105 to be on, 10 needs to be HIGH and 5 is LOW.
That’s a slight oversimplification. D45 is a blue LED, which should have about 3.6 V across it. If line LED10 is not connected to anything, the situation is also described as having D410 and D105 connected in series from LED4 to LED5. Because the red LEDs light up with about 1.7 V, that can be enough voltage to light up those two LEDs.
Now, there is some subtlety to the design, and things usually work as intended. However, if even a single LED is damaged or a resistor isn’t connected properly, that can screw everything up quite well.
The next thing to check is (with power off) the resistance from each output pin of the microcontroller to the LED1-LED10 lines. Refer to the circuit diagram, and touch your probes to the “shoulder” of the microcontroller pin and to the end of vertical jumper atop the red ring.
I asked because overvoltage would be one way to explain what you’re seeing.
That is the original power supply, which is good, but we recommend against using voltage adapters. The power supply accepts EU voltage (as you can see on it), and usually functions much better on “clean” mains power. You might be able to find a cheap “plug shape” adapter, which I would is a better solution.
You *may* have a partial connection between LED10 and something else. Can you use your multimeter (with power off) to check the resistance between LED10 to each of the other “LEDX” lines?
With that correction, those values make reasonable sense.
Can you please double check what power supply you are using, let me know the voltage and current specs, as well as the model number if available.
I imagine that should be “When Blue D16 is ON, Red 110 and 106 are ON”.
