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The AxiDraw’s EBB control board has a (very short) command queue, the one-level deep FIFO. So long as each command arrives before the last move finishes, you’ll be in good shape. (You can query if a move is done, or if the FIFO is full if you need to, but generally it works well enough to calculate your moves on a rough schedule, and let your computer+USB do the heavy lifting of the scheduling.)
On the two questions:
(1) The processing time is negligible compared to the typical motion time, so no worries there.(2) The AxiDraw software does use the SM command to execute its moves.
It sounds like you need to pick between how real-time versus smooth you would like the behavior to be.
Genuinely real-time movement does not let you plan any motion, since you don’t know what the future will bring. That leads to several potential issues:
(1) Potentially moving too fast to stop or turn quickly
(2) Potential “gaps” in movement. If there is a time gap between subsequent motion commands, or not a smooth transition between subsequent motion commands, the motion will be jerky.
(3) Jerky movement for other reasons, for example sending movements in too short increments, such that the USB has trouble keeping up.A few things to consider: Adding an intentional delay of (say) 100 ms between real time and intended movement can help a lot. You could make it such that motion commands are sent every 20 ms on a schedule (so that there are no gaps), such that each movement is aware of the present position and speed, and forms a bridge between where you are now (in position and speed) and where you want to be in 100 ms.
Here’s our article on the subject:
@adam: If the vertical slide is not falling back down under its own weight, then it’s likely that you’ll need to make a minor mechanical adjustment to it, to ensure that you have smooth sliding. (Do not add oil.)
Please contact technical support, and we can walk you through the process.
I’m sorry to hear about the trouble.
Unless there is physical damage from shipping, this set of symptoms most usually indicates that the USB driver may have failed to install correctly.
Please download and try running this installer:
https://github.com/evil-mad/EggBot/releases/download/2.7.1/UBWDriverInstaller_v20.exePlease grant the installer permission if it asks, and pay special attention to whether any error messages are generated. Once you have done so, see if you can establish communication to the machine.
Hi SummonToast,
It sounds like the pen-lift servo motor may have failed. They are inexpensive and straightforward to replace, but do occasionally require replacement. Please contact customer service and we can send you one that’s ready to install.Both the Inkscape-based software and the CLI can calculate how long a plot will take in the current versions (1.7.x).
Great, and if you do get stuck anywhere, we’re here to help– either here or by email and/or contact form. My best guess is that if you can fix that one transistor and install the remaining parts, you’ll be up and running (or at least very close to it.)
First, yes, we can help you get it to work. You have a lot of questions here, so I’ll try to take them (more or less) one at a time.
I can see why it isn’t working, but _please_ do not plug it into power again until you’ve both fixed what’s wrong and read carefully through the assembly instructions to double check your work. There may be other things wrong that are fixable at this point, but could lead to damage if plugged in that way.
I’m guessing that this is an Alpha Clock Five **Red** kit, but you haven’t said so. If it is an Alpha Clock Five kit in red (not blue or white), then yes, (as it says in step 21) all of the little half-round things are transistors. As it says in the instructions, you do need to match them to their outlines on the board. I can’t tell from the photo which is backwards, but if one is backwards, then it will (at a minimum) cause one character of the display to not light. You _must_ repair this before applying power to the clock.
You say:
>The parts list is not accurate according to my pcb
Can you please say exactly what you mean? If there are errors in the instructions or parts list we would definitely like to know about them.You also say
>The picture in the assembly instructions online show a different board than the one I have. (REV D)
This is true; That’s the reason that the board in your kit was sealed in a bag with a note that reads as follows:
>**Note on PCB version** This PCB is rev D, which replaces rev. C in version 2.0 kits. In assembly step 3, just pretend that it says “rev C”.
(The only difference between the Rev C and Rev D kits is that we have updated the logo graphics; there are no electrical differences.)>What should I do? Or, where do these parts go?
Please _follow the instructions_, step by step, and do what they say. If you do so, you’ll find that there are clear, picture-heavy descriptions of where to put each part, including the parts that you haven’t installed yet.
>It looks like I’m missing parts. On the pcb next to the 24 pin chip socket (on the left) there’s an empty 14 holes which looks like another chip is supposed to go there. I have a 24, 16, and 8 pin chip put in but there’s a whole column of holes in the middle of the board for components that I don’t have. Am I missing parts? It just seems like there’s a lot of empty slots left.
If you are missing any parts, please let us know which, and we can send you replacements. Yes, there are different parts that go into the kit, depending on the configuration. For example, look at step 22 of the instructions: This is a step for white (and blue) Alpha Clock Five kits only, that installs a voltage regulator at location U4. This regulator is not needed on red kits, and so that becomes an “empty slot” on red kits. (Other slots are left empty on white/blue kits.)
If you go ahead and follow the assembly instructions, you’ll even find that one of the steps lists _exactly_ which slots will be left empty when you’re done assembling the kit.
How do you know if parts are missing? Either if (1) If there’s any part listed on the bill of materials but not present in your kit, that’s one way to know. Or (2) if you come across one of the instructions that tells you to install a part, but you don’t have that part to install. Or (3) if you check that page of the instructions that shows you which slots are supposed to be empty and you have additional slots that are still empty. (Again, if you do find that parts are missing, please let us know and we can send you replacements.)
>Does it matter which direction the stripes on the resistors face when they’re installed? I didn’t think about this when soldering them in and they are not all facing the same direction.
No, as it says in the instructions, resistors can go in either way.
> Lastly (I think / hope) Where does the FTDI Friend chip go?
It doesn’t get soldered in; it only connects by that six pin connector. Follow the picture in the instructions, with one caveat. The instructions show it connected with FTDI cable version, rather than the FTDI Friend. Where the cable has black and green wires, the FTDI Friend has labeled “black” and “green” ends so that you can tell the orientation.
No, not by (for example) typing on the keyboard. Any kind of single-stroke text that you create (either by capturing handwritten text or using Hershey Text) is actually a set of _paths_. You _can_ edit those paths by using the various path editing tools ink Inkscape. However, there is no text there that could be edited.
If you want to use regular fonts, then they can be edited just fine, but you still need to convert them to outlines before plotting.
Please contact technical support for mounting drawings. (I would also note that we generally recommend keeping the outrigger feet for added stability, and putting screws through the provided holes in those feet. The feet are there, in part, to make it easier to mount to a surface.)
As it says on the software installation page, “please follow the instructions below, and then contact us for an updated configuration file that will allow your AxiDraw to access the full plotting area.” So, please use the contact form, and we can send you the updated software.
The specifications that you need are as follows:
* **Regulated** dc adapter, 9 V output
* Minimum 1.5 A capacity
* Plug: 2.1 x 5.5 mm, center positiveOnce again, the documentation is here:
https://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/Capturing_HandwritingIt is a capability that we are working towards. In the mean time, we’d suggest that you follow one of the supported methods from our documentation:
* Use regular fonts, but use *thin* fonts and a broad-nibbed pen, which can hide the double-stroke aspect of standard computer fonts. (This is how most of our examples are generated.)
* Use handwriting capture, to reproduce real human handwriting
* Use Hershey Text, in one of the few stroke fonts that is supported.
