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>No, that’s not it.
Did you actually check with the USB cable unplugged?The next thing to do is to try to move the motors, using the “Manual” tab of Eggbot Control. Try moving the “egg” motor, without anything in the Eggbot, to see if it turns.Usually, this means that the power supply is not plugged in or is not working.
Check that the lights on the EBB still light up when you disconnect the USB cable.The webcam program is set up to take the image input, and divide it down to 25×25. For other input sources, especially at different aspect ratios, you may need to look at the video size and adjust how it’s divided down.
Great!
The ‘2313 target board and the ISP shield both have the same orientation for the ISP header. In both cases the headers need to be installed on the tops of the boards, and you need to orient the cable the same way at both ends. This means that the red stripe side of the cable has to go towards the arrow-marked pin (pin 1) on both ends.
So, it sounds like one end of your cable is backwards.You should never use the “-F” option to override signature checking– *unless* you actually intend to program a chip as though it was one of a different type– a very rare but possible circumstance. Since you *are* programming a ‘t4313 as a ‘t4313, you should definitely NOT use the “-F” option. If you use “-F”, it will turn of important error checking that you actually should be using and paying attention to.Also, normally we use ‘avrisp’ not ‘arduino’ as the programmer type when doing this, and the USB port should be declared as “-P usb” not “-P /dev/xxxxx”.Those two LEDs are D610 and D106, which are connected between control lines LED6 and LED10. The LED10 connection to the red ring is good, because the rest of the red LEDs– all of which are also connected to LED10 –are working, so the problem must either be at the LED6 control line, or is at one or both of those red LEDs.
When these LEDs cannot light up, the current that would normally go through them needs to go *somewhere,* and so it goes through the other red and blue LEDs connected to lines LED6 and LED10– which are just the ones that you listed on the red and blue rings.Check the soldering first at vertical wire jumper LED6, at the red ring. This is the most likely place where the trouble could be. Also check the traces that lead from that point to the two red LEDs that are not lighting.If flexing the board changes something, there’s still a bad solder joint– that temporarily opens or closes when flexed –or the chips are not inserted all the way.
The selected row is controlled by the 74HC195 demultiplexer chips. Since the problem is in the top half of the rows, the particular chip to worry about is U2. The fact that you are losing regularly-spaced pins further suggests that that the problem is on the input side. That also means that the problem could also be at the U1, on the connections towards U2.And, you still have that column to fix as well– the likely issue is at one of the pins of the LED driver chips. Check near the middle-bottom of U4, in the area by C6. And, make sure that U4 is fully seated.Would you please try this older driver installer and see if that works for you?
Have you entered the name of your serial port in the Processing skectch?
The board type needs to be set as Duemilanove w/ Atmega328.
If you’ve clicked the “verify” button, then “done compiling” is a successful result. If you’ve clicked the “upload”, then it’s an intermediate result– it compiles before uploading. There should be some sort of final result (good or bad) reported at the end. In any case, you do need to make sure that the rightnserial port and board are selected before uploading.
When it has uploaded, you should see a distinct test pattern (grayscale ramps) that indicates that it is loaded.
I don’t see the USB-TTL cable in that list; you might try installing the FTDI VCP driver.
Hi Shane,
It looks like you must have edited your earlier message to indicate that you were able to get the library installed and my reply irrelevant– that’s pretty strange, actually.For the serial connection, make sure that you have the right port and board type selected. Can you see the port appear in the serial port menu after you plug in the cable?
Hi Shane,
The Peggy2Serial library is an Arduino *library*. You need to install it, not open it from within Arduino.See here for how to install Arduino libraries:
http://arduino.cc/en/Guide/Libraries
As for the behavior of your Peggy, it’s clear that one of your columns isn’t working, so check the soldering at the LED driver chips, base resistors, and transistors.
As for the rows that are not lit, that should be expected until you reprogram it with an example program from the correct library.
Hi Max,
In the code for Mirror Peggy 3, find the line that says:video = new Capture(this, 320, 240, 15); //Last number is frames per secondImmediately following that line, add the following line of code:video.start();This is necessary because of a change in the the video library, in the new “beta” version of Processing that you are running.
