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It looks like you opened the PeggyDraw2 program itself in Arduino, rather than the actual animation file that you generated with it. The animation file, called PeggyProgram.pde, is normally located in a folder inside the PeggyDraw2 folder.
You can run them lower (and then, the other LEDs brighter), but you get better sensor range by running them higher.
As it says on the BOM, the kits with red LEDs actually have 220 ohm resistors; the “200 ohm” figure was a preliminary estimate.
The number that you need to be concerned about is normally the total current on the MCU, which needs to be 200 mA or less. That gives you nearly 40 mA (for one IR LED) plus a little under 8*20 mA for the 8 visible LEDs, plus a few mA to run the MCU. With the standard component set, it runs pretty close to the limit.Hmm. Likely a hardware issue, then.
Check the EBB to see if there are any signs of damage. Try a different USB cable if you have one. Check the power supply to see if there’s any damage to its plug. See if you can make the problem worse (or better) by holding the USB cable one way or another, and the same with the power supply.We generally do not recommend updating the firmware, unless you need some of the specific features that are in the newer versions– the version that ships with the EBB is extremely reliable and well-understood, which is why we’ve continued to use it.
Now, when you get this error, is it on its own, or are you actually getting the “unable to find an eggbot…” error first?I’m not sure what you mean by “Everything stats to work from EggBot Control then?”
Can you say what operating system you’re using? And, is this the firmware that your EBB originally shipped with?It is theoretically possible; there have been other discussions here about it. However, it may not be 100% reliable. If a button press accidentally misses or registers twice on an individual board, it’s usually no big deal– you press the button again. But if it’s one board in the middle of a grid, that’s a bit different, so I wouldn’t guarantee that the full grid will always stay in sync. However, it also might be fun to try….
I’m not sure that I entirely understand the question. To put each board in the same “program” it is usually necessary to press the button on each board, to get it into that program. As part of programming, you could disable the ability to get into those other states, of course.
Yes, quite possible– and actually quite a clever idea –but you’ll need to program each board individually. This can be done while they are connected together in the matrix.
I’m not sure that I understand your units here: “1’9-3fv?” The best batteries to use are usually AA or AAA cells, as they have good energy density. But, 4 LEDs in a string can use 12 V or more to run at full current, depending on the colors and how bright you want to run them. It may be better to run from 4.5 V (three AA or AAA cells), so as to minimize battery size and weight, but then to run the LEDs in parallel, each with their own resistor.
Yes, you can add a slider switch, but it may be more complexity than it’s worth. Another good method is a “pull to activate” tab– a piece of plastic that keeps the battery from making initial contact.
